Well Pump Not Working? 7 Checks in Order (Troubleshooting Flowchart)
You turn on a tap and nothing comes out, or the water slows to a trickle and stops. When a well pump is not working, the cause is usually something simple like a tripped breaker or a clogged pressure switch, not a dead pump.
I have pulled plenty of pumps that were perfectly fine because someone skipped the easy checks. This guide walks you through them in the same order I use on a call, with a flowchart, a symptom table and the tools that make the job quick.
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| Symptom | Most likely cause | First thing to check |
|---|---|---|
| No water at all, pump silent | Tripped breaker or failed pressure switch | Breaker, then switch contacts |
| No water, you hear a click but no hum | Pressure switch or control box | Voltage at the switch and control box |
| Pump runs, no water or very little | Low water level, broken pipe or lost prime | Water level and pump amps |
| Pressure will not build past a certain point | Worn pump, leak or switch set too high | Gauge reading while the pump runs |
| Pump turns on and off every few seconds | Waterlogged pressure tank | Tank air precharge |
| Breaker trips when the pump starts | Shorted cable, bad capacitor or seized pump | Insulation test by a pro |
Safety First
A well pump runs on 230 or 240 volts, which can kill. Turn off the breaker before you open the pressure switch cover or the control box, and confirm the power is off with a tester.
If you are not comfortable testing live voltage, do the visual checks in this guide and call a licensed pump contractor for the electrical steps. Never work on wiring while standing in water.
Clamp meter with voltage tester
A clamp meter reads the current the pump is drawing without touching any wires, and its probes check voltage at the pressure switch. It turns guesswork into a 10 minute diagnosis.
- Measures AC amps, AC volts and resistance
- Non contact voltage detector built in on many models
- Works on 115 V and 230 V pumps
Tells you if the problem is power, the control or the pump itself.
Live tests need care and the right safety rating (CAT III or better).
Well Pump Troubleshooting Flowchart
Start at the top and stop as soon as you find the fault. Each step below explains how to do that check and what the result means.
1. Check the Breaker and Power
Look for a tripped breaker labelled well, pump or WP, and check any fuse or GFCI between the panel and the pressure switch. A tripped breaker looks like it is in the middle position, so switch it fully off and then on again.
If it trips again straight away or as soon as the pump starts, stop resetting it. That points to a short in the cable, a bad capacitor or a seized motor, and repeated resets can make the damage worse.
2. Read the Pressure Gauge
The gauge on the tank tee tells you where to look next. If it shows normal pressure but there is no water at one tap, the problem is in the house, such as a clogged filter or a frozen pipe, not the well.
If it reads zero or below the switch cut-in, the pump should be running. If it is not, move on to the pressure switch. If the gauge needle sticks or reads oddly, replace it, because a new 0 to 100 psi gauge costs less than a service call.
3. Inspect the Pressure Switch
The pressure switch is the most common failure point on a well system. Turn the power off, remove the cover and look at the contacts, which are the metal points that close to start the pump.
- Burnt or pitted contacts. The switch is worn and should be replaced. Tapping the switch to make the pump start is a sign it is failing.
- Insects or debris between the contacts. Ants love pressure switches, so clean them out and fit a new switch if the contacts are damaged.
- Clogged pressure sensing tube. Sediment blocks the small pipe nipple under the switch, so it never senses low pressure. Remove and clear it.
- Switch will not reset on a low pressure cutoff model. The pump lost pressure, often because the water level dropped, so find out why before you lift the lever.
To set or adjust a new switch correctly, follow my well pressure switch settings guide.
Square D pressure switch (30/50 or 40/60)
A new pressure switch fixes a large share of no water calls. Match the setting to your current switch, which is printed on the inside of the cover.
- 30/50 psi: model 9013FSG2J21
- 40/60 psi: model 9013FSG2J24
- Low pressure cutoff versions available
Cheap, widely available and easy to swap for anyone comfortable with wiring.
Fixing the switch will not help if the real cause is a waterlogged tank.
If your current switch has no low pressure cutoff, consider a pressure switch with low pressure cutoff. It shuts the pump off if the pressure collapses, which protects it from running dry when the well or a pipe fails.
4. Test the Voltage
With the power on and the switch contacts closed, check for 230 to 240 volts at the load terminals going to the pump. No voltage means the fault is upstream, in the breaker, the wiring or the switch itself.
If voltage is present and the pump still does not run, the fault is in the control box, the cable to the pump, or the pump motor. That is where a clamp meter earns its money.
5. Check the Control Box (3 Wire Pumps)
Three wire submersible pumps have a control box on the wall that contains a start capacitor and a relay. A failed capacitor is a classic cause of a pump that hums but will not start, or that trips the breaker.
Look for a bulging or leaking capacitor and a burnt smell. Two wire pumps have no control box, because the start components are built into the motor down the well.
Franklin Electric QD control box
If the capacitor or relay has failed, a matching control box gets a three wire pump running again. Check your pump horsepower and voltage on the old box label before ordering.
- Match horsepower and voltage exactly
- Quick disconnect design on most models
- Fits Franklin and many other 3 wire motors
Restores the pump without pulling it from the well.
Wrong size boxes can burn out the motor, so match the label.
6. Measure the Pump Amps
Clamp the meter around one power wire to the pump while it runs, and compare the reading with the rated amps on the control box or motor label. The reading tells you a lot about what is happening down the well.
| Amp reading | What it means | Next step |
|---|---|---|
| Zero amps with voltage present | Open circuit in the cable, splice or motor | Insulation and resistance test by a pro |
| Normal amps but no water | Pump is running but water is not getting up | Check for a broken drop pipe or a stuck check valve |
| Low amps | Pump is running dry or the impellers are worn | Measure the water level |
| High amps or breaker trips | Seized pump, bad capacitor or voltage problem | Turn off and call a pump contractor |
7. Check the Water Level
If the pump runs with low amps, the well may be pumping down below the pump intake, which a dry run protector can catch. This is common in late dry seasons and after heavy irrigation.
A water level meter tells you the static level and how far it drops while pumping. If the water is falling to the pump, a pump protection device stops the motor before it burns out.
Well Pump Not Turning On
If the pump is completely silent, work through breaker, switch, voltage and control box in that order. In my experience, more than half of these calls end at the breaker or the pressure switch.
If everything checks out and the pump still will not start, the motor or the cable in the well has failed. At that point the pump needs to be pulled, which is a job for a contractor with a hoist.
Well Pump Running But Not Pumping Water
A pump that runs but delivers no water has one of four problems: the water level is below the intake, the drop pipe has broken or come apart, the check valve is stuck, or a jet pump has lost its prime.
For a shallow well or convertible jet pump, refill the priming port and restart, and check the foot valve if it loses prime again. My guide to the best shallow well jet pumps covers priming in detail.
Well Pump Not Building Pressure
If the pump runs but the gauge stalls below the cut-out, the pump never shuts off. Common causes are a worn pump, a leak in the drop pipe or the house, or a switch set higher than the pump can reach on a deep well.
Close the valve after the tank and watch the gauge. If the pressure builds now, the leak is in the house; if it still stalls, the problem is in the pump or the pipe down the well. My guide to low water pressure from a well covers each cause.
Pump Turns On and Off Rapidly
Clicking on and off every few seconds is short cycling, and it is usually a waterlogged pressure tank that has lost its air charge. It kills pumps and switches quickly, so fix it straight away.
Check the tank air pressure with a tire pressure gauge while the system is drained, and set it 2 psi below the cut-in. If the tank has lost its bladder, a new well pressure tank is the fix. The short cycling guide and the pressure tank sizing calculator walk you through it.
Sudden No Water From the Well
When water stops suddenly with no warning, check for a power cut, a storm surge, a frozen pipe in winter or a tripped low pressure cutoff switch. In cold climates, a frozen pressure switch tube is a common winter culprit, as I explain in the guide to keeping a well pump from freezing.
If the power is out, a generator sized for your well pump or a battery backup keeps water flowing.
Repair or Replace? Typical Costs
| Repair | Typical part cost | Can a homeowner do it? |
|---|---|---|
| Pressure switch | $25 to $60 | Yes, with care |
| Pressure gauge | $10 to $25 | Yes |
| Control box or capacitor | $80 to $350 | Yes, if you match the rating |
| Pressure tank | $200 to $600 | Often, but it is heavy |
| Submersible pump replacement | $400 to $1,500 for the pump, plus pulling | No, use a contractor |
If your pump is old and failing often, compare it against the signs your well pump is going bad and the well pump lifespan calculator. A pump past 10 to 15 years is often worth replacing rather than repairing again.
Pump protection device (dry run and voltage)
A pump saver or protection relay shuts the motor off when the water level drops, the voltage sags or the pump runs dry. It is cheap insurance on any well that struggles in the dry season.
- Detects dry run by underload current
- Restarts automatically after a delay
- Some models add surge and voltage protection
Stops the most expensive failure, a burnt out motor.
Needs correct calibration to the pump amps.
When to Call a Pro
Call a licensed pump contractor if the breaker keeps tripping, if you have voltage but no amps, or if the pump needs to come out of the well. Pulling a deep submersible without a hoist is dangerous and can drop the pump down the hole.
Give the contractor what you have found: the gauge reading, voltage, amp draw and water level. Clear information makes the visit shorter and cheaper.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is my well pump not turning on?
The most common causes are a tripped breaker, a failed or clogged pressure switch, and a bad control box capacitor on three wire pumps. Check them in that order before assuming the pump has failed.
How do I know if my well pump is bad or the pressure switch?
If there is 240 volts at the pressure switch load terminals with the contacts closed and the pump draws no amps, the fault is in the pump, cable or control box. If the contacts never close or are burnt, it is the switch.
Why is my well pump running but not pumping water?
The water level may be below the pump, the drop pipe may be broken, the check valve may be stuck, or a jet pump may have lost its prime.
What should I check first when there is no water from my well?
Check the breaker first, then the pressure gauge, then the pressure switch. Most no water problems are found in these three places.
Can I reset my well pump?
You can reset the breaker once, and on a low pressure cutoff switch you can lift the lever to restart the pump. If it trips or loses pressure again, find the cause before resetting again.
How long does a well pump last?
Most submersible pumps last 10 to 15 years and jet pumps 8 to 12 years, depending on water quality, cycling and electrical protection.
Sources: Franklin Electric, Submersible Motors Application, Installation and Maintenance Manual; Water Systems Council, wellcare information for well owners; Square D, Pumptrol pressure switch instructions.
